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Outdoors
Mushroom Madness: Fungi aficionados will strike it rich in the mountains east of Cottage Grove.

Performance
Family Fare: Some acts fall while others fly.

Wine
Fearless Picks: Serve with confidence this Christmas.

Gourmet Gifts
Festive Food: Divine edibles make great gifts.



Mushroom Madness
Fungi aficionados will strike it rich in
the mountains east of Cottage Grove.
By James Johnston

A lot of Eugeneans have a hard time figuring out what to do with themselves during dreary November days. But not mushroom hunters. For these folks, the first cold rains are their cue to head for the hills.

Last week, I enlisted the services of two experienced mushroomers: the Grower's Market's Matt Watkins and the American Lands Alliance's George Sexton, for a tour of the prime mushroom hunting grounds along the Brice Creek trail east of Cottage Grove. The dank old growth forest along Brice Creek is the perfect spot to enjoy a crisp autumn hike and acquaint oneself with the myriad mushroom species of the Oregon Cascades.

Directions: From Eugene, drive I-5 South for approximately 20 miles. Take Exit 174 (Cottage Grove/Dorena Lake). At the light, take a left onto Row River Road. After four or five miles, this road turns into Shore View Drive and then back into Row River Road. Just stay on the main road all the way to the trailhead. You'll go past Sharp's Creek and Layng Creek and through the small villages of Culp Creek and Disston, following the signs for Brice Creek for about 22 miles from the freeway. The western trailhead begins about a mile inside the Umpqua National Forest boundary, after the road narrows to one lane. The river bottoms on your right between the western trailhead and Cedar Creek are lousy with fungi.

The best guide to mushrooms is David Arora's Mushrooms Demystified. On this day we're making use of Arora's excellent pocket guide to western mushrooms, All That the Rain Promises and More-- . We use the guide to key out dozens of 'shrooms, including velvet foot, boletes, aminatas, short-stemmed russalas, angel wings, scaly stalked psilocybes, violet corts and bleeding milk caps. My favorite mushroom name: "Questionable Stropharia" (Stropharia ambigua), a pleasant yellow mushroom with shaggy cotton-white stalk and gills.

Some of Arora's notes are pretty funny. When we key out Alaska golds, he writes, "Prized by some people for its fine flavor, but poisonous to others -- It should never be served to large groups--"

Later in the day we cruise up the 2232 road to the old growth forest in unit 8 of the Blodgett timber sale (the 740 spur road on the right). Here we find chanterelles, fried chicken mushrooms (they don't taste anything like chicken) and hedgehogs, all delicious edible mushrooms. Brice Creek, like most watersheds managed by the Forest Service, has two faces. The face the agency likes to show to the public is the beauty strip along the creek. But take any of the logging roads that branch off from the main road and you'll find thousands of acres of clearcuts, with more on the way. Blodgett is just one of many taxpayer subsidized timber sales slated for logging in the Cottage Grove Ranger District of the Umpqua National Forest (for more information, see http://www.cascwild.org/cg/main.html).

The Brice Creek trail is open all year and has lots to offer. The easy five-and-a-half-mile-long path, much of it wheelchair accessible, follows the exceptionally clear waters of Brice Creek past a number of beautiful waterfalls and deep pools. At the eastern end of the trail you can connect with the three-and-a-half-mile-long Trestle Creek Falls loop trail. This trail climbs about a thousand feet and takes you underneath upper Trestle Falls, one of the most gorgeous cascades in the state. You'll also find a lush carpet of maidenhair ferns and spectacular basalt formations.

And, of course, lots more mushrooms.

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Family Fare
Some acts fall while others fly.
By Aria Seligmann

For the past several years, the Lord Leebrick Theatre Company has presented the Holiday Vaudeville Show, meant to delight fans of all ages and bring in some sure cash to wrap up the year and line the coffers before the traditional "risky" January venture. This year, the holiday show, under the direction of Jonathan Siegle, takes on the form of a 1930s radio show, with acts coming into the station and performing over the air. It's kind of cute when juggler Roger Fountain pretends to be doing amazing feats with balls and knives, as radio announcer Mitch Hider. Of course, the audience sees that nothing is really happening.

And that's the problem with this show.

It's not that it hasn't been charming in years past, or that this production doesn't have its moments: Whistling Mitch Hider turns in some dandy tunes while accompanying himself on ukelele. Mime Vaughn Avery and juggler Roger Fountain, however, were unimpressive, but Fountain's problem may have been due to the fact that as he lifted a saber into the air, yes, to toss and catch it for real, someone's cell phone went off.

Naturally, it interrupted his concentration. He collected himself and when he again lifted the knife into the air, the cell phone owner, who was sitting in the front row, got up and walked out -- right across the stage, with phone to ear. A poignant moment, imagining knife point meeting with phone. (I'd like to see a sign reading "No Cell Phones" posted at every theater entrance, just for those who don't know better.)

The Jeweltones turn in some decent Andrew Sisters-like numbers. But when Siegle announced the Jeweltones were the headliners, it made me think if that's the best act showing up for auditions, it's time to put this annual production to rest.

Lord Leebrick has created a new mission statement that says it wants to broaden its audiences' horizons and expand into edgier endeavors. There must be all sorts of other Christmasy shows out there it can do. Or, if it wants to hold onto the vaudeville theme, why not reach out to some of the Country Fair stalwarts, who present genuinely entertaining vaudeville shows every year? I bet audiences would show up for that, and they'd get their money's worth.

The good news is Eugene has boasted some great family entertainment of late. In November, Dance Theatre of Oregon presented a charming rendition of The Shoebird. The evening opened with a short dance that engaged the children in the audience, followed by a colorful re-enactment of the beloved Eudora Welty story. Despite some obvious sound problems on opening night, the show was a hit, though what should have been a show-stopping number by Peg Major, decked out in brilliant finery, couldn't be heard because of technical difficulties. (Fortunately, Major is more than making up for that now over at Actors Cabaret with her performance as Rose in Gypsy.)

Pamela Lehan-Siegel was wonderful as both dancer and actor, and the choreography served the story. The star of the evening was designer Sher Alltucker, whose fabulous bird costumes sparkled, tufted and plumed, creating a dazzling spectacle.

Coming up next weekend, Dec. 14 through 16, Willamette Repertory Theatre opens its third season at the Hult Center with A.R. Gurney's Love Letters. The work follows the lives of two people and the relationship they managed to maintain through more than 60 years of letter writing.

The show is directed by Hans Christofferson, one of Eugene's finest, who also directed The Miracle Worker for the Rep's first season and The Best Man last year at Lord Leebrick. Priscilla Hake Lauris plays Melissa Gardner. Lauris has lived and acted in Eugene in years past, has performed with the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and is now living in Seattle and working with the Seattle Repertory Theatre. James Edmondson plays Andrew Makepeace Ladd III. Edmondson has been with OSF since 1973 and has directed and acted in more than 40 Ashland productions.

"We are very lucky to get such talented, dynamic actors for this delightful piece of theater," says Artistic Director Kirk Boyd. "Priscilla and Jim are perfect for Love Letters and are very excited to be working with one another again. I was able to get them by convincing each that I was sure the other had said yes!"

Tix are $25 and available at the Hult.

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Festive Foods
Divine edibles make great gifts.
by Lance Sparks

At the fifteenth floor of Eugene's oldest highrise, the ancient Otis wheezed and groaned to a halt. Grinding, the door opened. I stepped out, shuffled down the hallway, side-stepping broken linoleum, to the pebbled glass door bearing the single word, Investigations. I pushed my key at the lock. The door swung inward slowly, revealing, first, a pair of size-14 brogans crossed on my desk, then shiny gray gabardine slacks, finally a hulking form in a dark overcoat. His face was hidden under a black fedora, but I knew who it was. "Hiya, Rock," I said, trying to keep the quaver out of my voice. His huge paws were toying with my Morrocan dagger letter opener. He used one paw to push back his snap-brim and show me his face.

"Hiya, Sleut'. Long time." Rock goes about six-four, weighs maybe 250, no fat, head like a cinder block. He dropped the brogans to the floor, leaned forward, rolled his shoulders like a couple boulders under a blanket. He looked up, shot out a granite-like jaw, gave me a wide grin, big white teeth like tombstones. "I come t' ast ya a favor." I think that's when I breathed again. Sure, I told him, thinking it'd be great to have Rock on my side for once. But I couldn't imagine how my business could cross with his. "Ya know," he hesitated, "I ain't much fer mushy stuff ... " I coughed, choked back a chuckle. "... even Crizmus. I got no time fer sugar plum fairies or babies in hay bales, but ... "

He was interrupted by the door hitting me in the butt. "Ho, ho, ho, holly jollies!" Mole popped in, full elf regalia, green, pointy hat and stockings, even bells, slid to a halt when he spotted Rock, gulped loudly couple times, snatched the elf cap off, nodded vigorously, "R-R-Rock (gulp), hiya. Heunh-heunh-he ...," his rheumy laugh, snipped short when Rock fixed him with .45 caliber eyes.

The big guy waited, still as a monolith, then continued, rushing the words, "Imetareally swelldame." Maybe I started to chortle. I stopped when Rock stuck the dagger into the desk, left it quivering. Next to me, Mole moaned.

"Y-you met a nice lady! Rock, that's great, hope you're both happy, 'n merry Crizmuz, and, and ...." I spun my fedora a couple turns in my hands, might've bent the brim a bit.

"And she invited me ta Crizmuz dinner 'n I gotta bring da wine, 'n ya gotta help me, see?" He looked almost winsome, like one of those critters on cathedral roofs.

"Yeah, right, buddy, no problems! You talk t' Mole, 'n I'll run to the store, back ina mo--"

"Nah, jes gimme a list 'n I'll pick up the goods. Gotta coupla guys what owes me, see?"

"Rightrightright, we're on it, pal. Lessee, Mole, wadda we got fer the big guy, bottl'a somethin' tasty, Beaujolais nouveau mebbe?"

"Nah," Rock broke in, "da noovo is too thin 'n acidic." My jaw dropped. "'Sides, dis gotta be da whole magilla, appetizers t' dessoit, big doin's, see?" I saw my limbs in traction at Sacred Wallet. Mole tugged my sleeve, nattered:

"Rock, we gotcha covered, I mean, we can handle ya, I mean mnphnf." I clamped my hand over his blather, wheeled him toward the lab door, launched into my spiel:

"Champ, we been workin' jes this kinda thing, wine fer a feast, front t' back." I watched Mole scratch at the lock on the lab door, finally get the key inserted, snap back the heavy bolt, then disappear like smoke into darkened space. I worried he might hide in the air vents, but he quickly re-appeared, clinking bottles braced in both hands, toted them to the desk, turning the labels toward Rock. I babbled:

"Awright, we open with Oregon bubbles, kinda homey thing, St. Innocent 1997 Brut, only $14.50 but fluffy with flavors of apples, yeast, touch of toast, lovely. Or can't-miss Roederer Estate Brut ($21), California's most consistently tasty. Or shoot the moon, Veuve Cliquot 1995 Grande Dame ($150), toppa the world elegance.

"We follow, for the salad course, with two pretty whites, LaVelle 2000 Riesling ($9) or Secret House 1999 Riesling ($9), both with ripe pears and green apple flavors, hint of sweetness, bright, refreshing. Also works if people gotta have wine with soup.

"Now, dry whites; for fish, turkey, game hens, can't beat King Estate 1999 Reserve Pinot Gris ($19), all over the mouth with melons and apples, perfect balance.

"Light red hasta be Rogue Valley's Foris 1998 Pinot Noir ($12), burst of fresh cherries and raspberries, or La Bete 1999 Gamay Noir ($8.50!), ripe and juicy with black cherries, luscious Oregon wine. Or tote a magnum of Broadley 1998 Pinot Noir Claudia's Choice, beautiful, dramatic, bargain at $90.

"Big reds for the meats: Eugene Wine Cellars 1999 Syrah ($18), loaded with dark fruits, pepper, big in the mouth.

"Dessert, little half-bottles of Eola Hills 1998 Vin d'Epice ($17), late harvest gewurztraminer, honeyed and nippy. Dazzle 'em with beautiful Port, Burmester Colheita 1985 Reserva ($69), deep and rich, lingering finish, super wine, only at Sheldon's in Gateway."

Rock stood slowly, lumbered around the desk, dropped a hand like a bag of cement on my shoulder. "T'anks, Sleut'. Dat'll make a merry Crizmuz."

When the door rattled shut behind him, Mole and I both felt a lot merrier. Hope you do, too.

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Festive Foods
Divine edibles make great gifts.
by Lance Sparks

OK, I get giddy at Christmas. I try to stay politically conscious, eat healthy and in moderartion, yaddayadda, but in the end I always give in to raging nostalgia and the compulsion to give gifts, wrap presents in gaudy papers and bows, and eat every tantalizing tidbit in sight.

This year, I'm looking to combine compulsions, so I'm shopping for special foods of every variety, packing some as gifts to friends, picking others to put on our table for feasts and fetes. Call these tasties "gourmet" if you like, but I'm just after new flavors and textures that'll tingle the palate and delight the senses.

What's cool is that so much really good grub has come to market in recent times, particularly some rare and surprising foodstuffs and loads of specialty items made here at home, many of them from local farms, fields, vines and orchards.

Many of these dainties are produced in small batches by our neighbors; and more often than not, the basic ingredients are organically grown, prepared and packaged with some consciousness about environmental matters and without reliance on artificial preservatives or flavor enhancers.

Sleighride down to such natural food stores as Sundance, Oasis, Kiva, New Frontier, Red Barn. These folks often make special efforts to find and stock locally-made products. It takes almost no effort on the shopper's part to find scads of hand- and home-made jams, jellies, honeys, syrups, candies, exotic oils and vinegars, cheeses, breads and mixes for baked goods, soups, stews and chilis.

Examples abound. Love good jam? Wrap your lips around marionberry made by The Best From Oregon (whoever cooks it signs the label). Aloha From Oregon makes a jalapeño or mango pepper jelly that'll make you smile through your tears. Sandra's Gourmet Foods, Eugene, offers magic in a jar: their black currant jelly is terrific, but the wild coastal huckleberry is sublime (available at Farmer's Market/Holiday Market until Christmas), and don't miss the quince, rose petal or wild black plum jellies and jams. Gabrio's (Crewell) puts out a dazzling array, but their wild blackberry, golden raspberry, strawberry-rhubarb and cherry are way gone delicious. Calls for a P&J sammy, with Maranatha (Ashland) Almond Butter or Kettle (Salem) Organic Peanut Butter.

Look deeply into Pristine Fruit's lingonberry syrup for your Swedish pancakes. Whip up a batch of hazelnut scones from the Brickerville Farm (Mapleton) mix and slather on some Raynblest Farm Light Wildflower honey or Classic Gourmet (Eugene) Cranberry Marmalade. Toss a salad, splash with Abernathy Violet Champagne Wine Vinegar or a dash of Susanna's wildly beautiful kitchen-art infusions, maybe the garlic oil, crumble over the top some Juniper Grove (Redmond) goat cheese. Mebbe brew up a little soup, Mrs. Britt's Oregon Kitchen's (Grants Pass) Market Vegetarian or Southern Roots Savory Cookin' (Eugene) Creole Black Bean. Finish with a slice of Trappist Abbey Fruitcake. Top off with Euphoria (Eugene) chocolate truffle.

The fruits of our sea are also special; people in other places regard Oregon's crab and salmon and shellfish as among the world's best, whether fresh, canned, dried or smoked. You can find smoked fish -- cod, albacore, marlin, halibut, silver or chinook salmon -- all at $10.99-$14.99/lb at Fisherman's Market.

Crab season just opened and fresh, whole Dungeness, among the world's best, is only $5.99, crustacean bliss.

'Course fresh is best, and that also takes you to Newman's Market where you can encounter the area's widest selection of special cheeses -- Stilton, Valencay d'Endree, Ticklemoor, Tomme de Savoie, many more -- plus smoked salmon, oysters, mussels, tuna. And -- Oh, happy Dane! -- they have that seasonal favorite, lutefisk. Also find fleur du sel here, the "flower" of salt, only $8.99 for 125g.

Of course, we can shop from home, never leaving the telephone or computer screen, never having to touch or talk to actual people. I keyed up Google to search for "gourmet foods," got a mere 180,000 hits. Strikingly, third on the list was the Oregon Gourmet Foods Trade Association site, listing dozens of producers (with addresses, phone numbers, even e-mail) and a shopping menu from appetizers to nuts and desserts, including some Oregon exotics such as kiwi fruit products from Dundee Hills Farm to Oregon-Grown Emu (Rickreall).

Naturally, this being America, silly excess is not uncommon. I surfed Web pages for various other dotcom purveyors and found them flogging such tasty tidbits as Beluga caviar at a mere $57.60/ounce. Now that's Republican! Dean and Deluca offer fresh white truffles at $275 for 1.25 ounces, discounts for pound-size orders -- gotta be some yummy fungus. The Comtesse du Barry site sells traditional French foie gras -- duck at two tins of 210g. (total about 15 oz.) for $32.73 or goose at $42.80. Dodge Inn will send four six-ounce filet mignons for a mere $39.95 (down from $49.99 -- call it ten bux per steak or about $26/lb.

This only scratches the surface of the special and seasonal foods we can bring to our friends or to our own tables to make feasting for the season and the new millennium something beyond the mundane. I hope you'll enjoy a grand and festive holiday, adding only this: We can increase our joy when we share our bounty and the blessings of our lives. Give generously. Make peace, make love.

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