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An elderly woman with her legs amputated below the knees holds a doll wrapped
in cloth close to her chest. She sits in front of the Citadel in Hue and lets go
of her doll only to shake her fists at American tourists and demand money as payment
for the death of her baby and the injury to her legs during the war. Hoards of Vietnamese
children carry cases full of matches, cigarettes and postcards. They greet the tourist
buses and tug at sleeves saying in broken English, "You buy postcard from me."
Women in conical hats bend over in labor in the vibrant green Mekong Delta rice fields,
greener than any other green -- even Oregon in the spring. All are images of Vietnam
-- some painful and broken, others strong and hopeful -- much like the country itself.
But the anti-American sentiment is present as well. No place is this more evident than at the War Remnants Museum in Saigon. Once known as the "Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes," the museum is a sobering reminder that atrocities were committed on both sides during the war. The photographs displayed include some of the My Lai massacre, Vietnamese children mangled by American bombing, napalming and artillery shells. There are also photographs of torture and a model of the tiger cages used by the South Vietnamese military to house Viet Cong prisoners. Regardless, adventure travelers are flocking to Vietnam in search of some place off the beaten path. But visitors to Vietnam will find their path well worn -- not by sheer numbers of tourists, but because tourists are only allowed to use certain government-licensed hotels and tour groups. The idea of herding in a group is unappealing to some seasoned travelers, but it is by far the safest, easiest and least expensive way to travel in Vietnam. Once your bus arrives at your destination, there's ample time and space to go your own way. Tourist buses are air conditioned with cushy seats, far safer than local transportation, and since you're often traveling with the same group, it's a great way to make new friends. The beaten path usually begins in Saigon, where you will find it easy to book the rest of your tour from one of the tourist cafes. Many trips begin with a one- to five-day tour of the Mekong Delta. These trips generally include boat tours along the canals to local villages, walks in mangrove swamps where the Viet Cong spent a lot of time hiding from American "search and destroy" missions, and views of the luciously green rice fields.
There's much to see along the route from Saigon to Hue. Dalat in the central highlands provides mountain scenery, waterfalls and forests. It's a favorite vacation spot for Vietnamese and is famous for its robust coffee served with sweetened condensed milk. The area is home to dozens of distinct ethnolinguistic groups (Montagnard hill tribes), more than almost any other country in Asia. Although Vietnam became famous in America through war (known as the War of American Aggression in Vietnam), the country has a rich and vibrant cultural history of its own. A visit to My Son (between Dalat and Nha Trang) and to the Cham Towers (Mekong Delta), where the kingdom of Champa flourished from the second to the 15th centuries, will impress any visitor with the power of Vietnam's ancient culture. It's disturbing to realize that many of the ancient buildings, particularly at My Son, were destroyed by American bombs. There are still land mines in the area so you must stay on the trails. The local cattle who graze the area are referred to as "local mine sweepers." Also along the way are China Beach and the charming port towns of Natrang and Hoi An. Hue is probably the most historically interesting city in Vietnam. The ancient capitol of Vietnam includes the Royal Citadel and a boat trip down the Perfume River gives you access to tombs and pagodas of former Vietnamese emperors. In an interesting twist, tourism has been a savior to these ancient monuments since they were allowed to fall into ruin during the height of the "social evils" campaign. But now that the government can make money off of them, they're more willing to preserve them. It's common to enter the country through Saigon and exit through Hanoi. The two cities are in complete contrast. Whereas Saigon is bustling with modern life, polluted by motorbike traffic, littered with rubbish and permeated by the stench of urine on the streets, Hanoi is orderly and clean, with wide, shady streets bustling with foot traffic.
Hanoi is also home to the Municipal Water Puppet Theater. Almost every night puppeteers hide behind a green bamboo curtain, hip deep in water. The puppets, carved out of fig trees into images of villagers, animals and mythical creatures such as dragons, dance and perform in a pool of water. Set to music by a small live orchestra, the painted puppets perform different stories from the daily lives of farms, historical events, myths and religious rituals. The most spectacular dance is the "Dragon Dance." The dragons glide across the water, flicking their tails, disappear under the water and quickly reappear. In the grand finale, the dragons surface out of the water spouting sparks and smoke from their mouths. The food all over Vietnam is as cheap as it is heavenly. As in most countries you'll do better to skip the places that are advertised for tourists and seek out the places where the locals dine. You'll not only save money, but you'll find the quality of food to be far superior. One possible exception is the heavy use of nuoc mam (fermented fish sauce) in Vietnamese cooking. Some westerners do not like the strong, distinctive taste. Tourist restaurants are aware of this and often automatically substitute soy sauce. But without it you'll lose much of the authentic flavor for some of the most popular Vietnamese dishes such as pho (broth flavored with star anise, ginger and pepper that is added to cooked rice noodles, usually some type of meat and garnished with coriander) and spring rolls.
More than any other country in recent history, Vietnam has had a profound effect on the American psyche. It's not an easy place to visit as an American, but those who do will be rewarded with an intense emotional and cultural experience in a country filled with natural beauty.
When most people think of Haiti they think of poverty, overpopulation, and political turmoil, yet it's one of my favorite places in the world. I have seen the poverty, the crowded conditions and once (on an especially exciting trip), a coup. I have also seen the strength, cleverness and bravery humans are capable of and the amazing creativity and art that evolves from suffering. I've seen generosity like I never knew existed until going to the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere and a faith in spirit and God that maintains hope in the human heart -- even against the most dire of conditions. Haiti carries its burdens -- hundreds of years of external and internalized oppression -- in its slums, meager subsistence farms and treeless eroding hills. It also carries a rich African culture: art, spirituality (Voodoo) and language (Creole). Haiti sits 500 miles south of Florida, on the island of Hispaniola. The "Pearl of the Antilles," is named for its wealth of resources and easy port. Haiti has varied ecosystems of valleys, mountains, forest, desert and warm seas.
In 1804, after a bloody 13-year revolution, Haiti became the world's first black republic. Europe and the U.S. were fearful and unwilling to recognize an ex-slave state and Haiti was for the most part ignored for the next 100 years. In 1915 the U.S. invaded Haiti under the usual pretense of bringing democracy to a country that just happened to be conveniently located on the Windward Passage, a strategic point just before the war. The occupation lasted for two decades. Since then the U.S. government's policy toward Haiti has been mainly in the interest of American business that benefits greatly from a desperately poor population. Haiti is one of the most dynamic and culturally rich places in the Caribbean, with an ethic of sharing and deep pride. About 85 percent of Haiti's six million people are Catholic, but it is said that 100 percent practice Voodoo -- one of the most disparaged religions on the globe. Voodoo is not a zombie cult as Hollywood has portrayed it to be, but rather a religion of healing and spirit worship derived from the Yorba tradition. In the rural areas of Haiti, a community is based around the priest or priestess and the peristil, or Voodoo temple. Haiti's art -- paintings, metal work and sculpture, and sequined flags -- is filled with images relating to Voodoo. Haitian music has its base in the drumming that accompanies Voodoo ceremony.
I have been going almost every year since, now with just my family since People to People dissolved in 1996. We stay in a guest house in Port-au-Prince, the capital. We work in Mother Theresa's homes for sick and dying adults and children, giving medical attention when we can and more importantly, dignity and companionship to very sick and sometimes dying human beings. Three mornings a week we work in a clinic hosted by the Brothers of Charity who have a compound in Cite Soley, one of the largest slums in Port-au-Prince. An estimated 300,000 to 400,000 people live in the 4 to 5 square miles that make up Soley. There is no running water and no electricity. Families of 12 live in tin and cardboard shacks that are about 10 square feet. Running between the tiny homes are drainage ditches filled with sewage, waste and trash in an oil broth from a sugar refinery up the hill. One quickly learns basic medical skills working in a clinic and through the years we have learned to treat wounds, sick babies, stomachaches, colds, burns, fungus, etc. Last year, a 13-year-old girl came in with a swollen and pus-filled hand. We worried that the infection had gone to the bone and she might have to have her hand amputated. I worked with her every three days, cleaning her hand and, with referral, giving antibiotics. By the time we left it was nearly healed. She will keep her hand. Service work provides a lens through which to view a country. It is different than the lens of tourism, and helps to broaden our perspectives. Jenny Boyce will again travel to Haiti this month, and plans to do a public slide show in February with photos taken by her father and brother. Watch for the listing in EW's Calendar. Call her at 343-4262 for more information about groups that travel to Haiti.
What it mostly comes down to is your own take on whether we ought to blend with or overtake nature. The choices can be as obvious as strolling barefoot on a beach watching seabirds scatter in the sun, or blowing up clouds of sand as your dune buggy roars over untracked coastland. At first glance, the options seem clear to anyone who cherishes preservation of natural habitats. Are the nesting grounds being protected? Are the elk left undisturbed? Once having ascertained a positive response, however, the question becomes, "Is there room enough for the other camp to function here as well?" The developers of coastal attractions clearly think there is. Coexistence is not always an irksome choice. You can spend your days catching crabs or sailing wind-blown out of Charleston Harbor, then opt to spend an evening setting off clamorous bells at The Mill Casino slots. At least some of the money that may be lost in gaming will go to support tribal health care, community projects and an organic cranberry farm for the Coquille Indians who own and operate the gambling resort. For many who object to mechanical forays into natural habitats, the criteria for acceptance is decibels. For speed and thrills, few adventures can match rafting or kayaking down the rapids of the Rogue River, but neither of these are likely to panic blacktail deer or osprey. Can the same be said of Rogue River hydrojet mail boats that penetrate more than 50 miles into the interior? Originally designed to provide a needed postal service for folks living along its remote banks, the boats now carry 30 passengers at a time, going 104 miles round trip in six hours (plus lunch stop). According to the brochure, however, they are "committed to operating in harmony with nature ... with minimal impact on the wilderness." Likewise, those who oppose the restriction of wildlife in any form may frown upon even the free-roaming critters at the West Coast Game Park near Bandon. Visitors can wander through 21 acres of tame deer, llamas and more familiar farm animals. The great cats (leopards, lions, tigers, etc.) and bears are separated by protective fencing but the youngest are brought out by keepers to get up-close and personal with guests. Park owners Robert and Mary Tenney explain they are dedicated to the propagation and preservation of species under their care, some of which are endangered. Although they seldom release any back into the wild, they promote educational programs and foster biodiversity. Despite any negatives, the south coast still offers a multitude of commendable natural attractions. One example: South Slough, the Coos Bay estuary where a low-impact study trail has been built descending through several layers of topography. The final stretch is a boardwalk over lush saltmarsh and tidal flats including a soggy alien landscape of immense skunk cabbage. Just to the west, Cape Arago road leads past Shore Acres Gardens, once the private reserve of millionaire shipbuilder and lumber baron Louis Simpson. Now a state park, it contains hundreds of blooms and an authentic Japanese garden. A lookout point to the south offers views of Shell Island crowded with harbor seals, sea lions and elephant seals. Marty Giles is a local guide who offers personalized tours to all of these destinations and others. Check out her website at www.wavecrestdiscoveries.com Anyone who has taken Highway 38 to Reedsport knows of the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area. Accustomed to passing cars and tourists, the elk are hardly shy and are separated from the human element by only a narrow meadow brook. There is also beauty in structures man-made. A half dozen graceful lighthouses adorn the south coast. The oldest is the 1870 Cape Blanco Light on Oregon's westernmost promontory. The curved strand below it is home to massive weathered rock formations, as is much of the sensational Oregon shoreline. We may not be able to swim safely on our beaches, but we certainly do get a sense of drama. South coast accommodations are plentiful and cover a wide range of hospitality. Friendliest by far are some notable B&Bs. To take but one example, Sixes River Bed and Breakfast (innkeeper@sixeshotel.com) run by Bert and Elizabeth Teitzel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Decorated and furnished in antiques, it was once a stagecoach stop. The Teitzels, originally from Eugene, prepare huge gourmet breakfasts and offer the use of whatever recreational equipment they can turn up. We found they had a canoe at the ready so we jumped aboard to follow the shallow Sixes River roughly three hours to the coast. Along the way, we came close to deer, osprey, raccoon, giant blue herons and a snake. Actually, the snake came close to us, having hidden itself in the bow of the aluminum canoe until water seeped in to disturb it an hour into the journey. That meant two more hours were spent persuading the snake to return to its sodden shelter in between paddling the current and trying not to tip over. We ended the trip convinced that even pure, unsullied nature can provide adequate thrills.
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